Previously published on:
Since its A/W 2010 debut, Them Atelier has assembled quite the following. Their line of jeans with names like Crypt Tapered Jean and Black Basin are high on style and low on price. However, what Olga Nazarova and Brian Kim of this Los Angeles-based team have proven is that come hell or high water, slim jeans are still the de rigueur item of choice. When we asked the duo “why denim?” there was no elaborate, labyrinth of an explanation: “The necessity and simplicity,” they answered. Here we delve deeper into the duo, who also create a magazine and curate art shows in addition to modernizing an ancient twill fabric.
What places have had the most impact on your designs? The design takes cues from themes or at times of collaborations. For the AW 10 Leslie Shows collaboration, we spent a week in San Francisco at her studio. We studied the environment and material in her large landscape collages wondering what would be worn in the environments she creates. We also spent time at the Japanese Tea Garden and the Natural Science Museum in Golden Gate Park and, of course, a day in the Redwoods up north. Natural settings tend to reset your input and can give you a new perspective being surrounded by non man-made things.
What are you currently working on? We are working on a video for our magazine, choreographed by Ryan Heffington, designed by Ishi Glinsky, and shot by Ben Kutsko. The video is in conjunction with an editorial, shot by Eliot Lee Hazel, for our next issue #3. Simultaneously we are designing AW11/12 and curating an art show in our new factory.
What else do you create besides denim? We create capsule collections and through collaboration are always venturing into new categories, materials and textures. We also produce a bi-annual magazine, Them Rag, a culture behind the brand.
What makes Them Atelier so unique compared to other denim brands? Our aesthetic is very simple: minimal design/ excellent quality — which we continually work to develop and improve further. We are always working with young and innovative artists from various fields — giving us a broader audience and perspective. The company is run by innovative and open-minded individuals, not garmento or a factory.
Speaking of “Them Atelier” how did you come up with this name for the brand? The brand started in our old atelier where we made custom bespoke pieces. Ultimately we are about collaborations and working with others, leading to the name “them”. We wanted others to become a part of them when they purchase our product.
What is your inspiration for the spring/summer 2011 line? The concept is the relativity and relationship of light and color. Our color palette was chosen to accentuate this. For women’s jeans, we have very subtle dyes that look white until you place them next to each other. Then you notice mint and violets. Alone or in the bright light they appear to be white. This leads to a sense of being physically light and levitated.
Can you briefly describe your atelier/work space? We just moved to an old paint factory from 1910. We are still settling, but the space is already very inspiring with its white brick walls and skylights. We are sharing the space with a music studio (We Are The World), shoe company (Ladyboy) and another designer (Moon Spoon Saloon). We are going to be hosting shows and events as well as have our retail space open by January.
I recently started following you on Tumblr. Would you say this is your mood board? We use this as an overall place to present great imagery and learning material. We try to pull mostly from books and other sources that intrigue us. These images do not necessarily directly affect the design, but they are what we are usually looking at during the design time. Each season we mostly share files digitally creating a digital mood board.
What are your plans for the brand in the future? We intend to expand our knowledge in the development and production of our aesthetic — simple and affordable products as well as continue the growth of Them as a collective by collaborating with new inspiring people.
If either (or even both) of you could choose any 3 people dead or alive who you’d be honored to wear your clothing, who would they be? Robert Smith, Mater Suspira Vision, Viktor Tsoi, Zhanna Aguzarova and Eliot Lee Hazel.
Learn more about Them Atelier here.